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The History of Lowjack Remy-Martin & Remyline

Original Story credit: Christopher “Bully The Kid” Bennet

The story of Remy Martin is stuff of legend. A sickly looking pup purchased for around $500 and a treadmill- eventually banked enough money to buy his own treadmill company. The term legend is thrown around too loosely in the Bully Community. There is no debate Lowjack’s Remy-Martin is a Legend, there is no argument, no discussion except where his place is in the Hall of Fame.

A dog that was the first to start a line, the first to create a t-shirt fad, and perhaps the first Bully to be used in a divorce settlement as a legitimate earner. He was the cause of the dreams of new dog men who come into the bully game with the idea you could “luck up” and choose the right pup from the whelping box to solidify their entire yard. He was known not only in Southern California, but the entire United States. Then as if that wasn’t enough, he set Europe and Asia on fire with his blood.

Remy Martin made the reddish blue fawn colored coat popular. Everybody was stuck on blue until he stepped onto the scene as something different. His unique bark was a distinct characteristic that only his line possessed. He had an army behind him, down to the camouflaged fatigues and boots. The Show Scene was turned upside down when the Remyline Crew started barking for that Remy blood.

Now there are tattoos and stories about a Bully legend- a scattering of fables that place emphasis on the fire he ignited that separated him from the rest. The Controversy surrounding the amount of breeding he actually did now pales in comparison to the amount of individuals who wished they owned a Remy son or daughter. It seems now he wasn’t bred enough so that more people could experience the heat that sparked the legend-the legend that will always be sparked by the Remy fire.

With the advent of the Razor’s Edge line of pit bulls, a number of bloodline strains from Razor’s Edge have been born. The most popular of these strains is the Remyline bloodline. “One dog, one line.” Like Gotti blood, Fabian Chichester created the Remy line from a single stud. “Lowjack’s Remy Martin.” The history of Remyline starts back in 03’ with $500 and a treadmill.

Remy was the last puppy left in his litter and Fabian traded a treadmill and $500 cash for him not knowing exactly how special the little pup would be. As the pup matured, Fabian realized that Remy was one of a kind. Remy had a look about him like no other dog in around. Blue Fawn in color, thick heavy bone, a magnificent head piece and a profile stare that said; this is one serious dog!

Folks in the rapidly growing Bully community fell in love with Remy. It wasn’t long before Fabian was approached with requests to use Remy as a stud for a variety of females. In a period of just a few short years Remy became one of the most prolific bred Pitbulls in history with over 936 registered offspring.

Those who are fortunate enough to have Remy in their pedigree proudly identify with the Remyline name. Remy has produced many show quality offspring, while starting the Remy movement that will never be forgotten in the Bully World. We are proud to have Gottiline, Remy and Razors Edge lines on our yard, with the one and only Remy on our peds.

Fabian set a price of $2500 for the stud fee and people began to line up for the chance to have Remy sire a litter in the hopes of creating another Remy. Thus Remyline Kennels was born. Today, a half a dozen years later, many kennels are still lining up to have a chance to add Remy blood to their profile. In a period of just a few short years Remy has become one of the most prolific bred Pit bulls in history, with over a thousand registered offspring. Those who are fortunate enough to have Remy in their pedigree proudly identify with the Remyline name.

What is interesting to note, is the way that Fabian went about building Remyline. Unlike Dave Wilson who used a number of different Pit bulls in which to develop the Razor’s Edge line; Fabian used just one dog to create Remy line. Of course, dozens have tried to imitate Fabian’s success, reasoning that if he could do it with Remyline, they could accomplish the same thing with their dog. The fact is; no line of PitBull of the Razor’s Edge or Gotti strain has even come close to gaining the recognition that Remyline has achieved.

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How to Create A Quick and Inexpensive Whelping Box

How To Series: Creating an inexpensive Whelping Box (For about $58.00 worth of material including Beer)

By Dawghouse Bullies


Box size:

If the female you are breeding can lay comfortably on her side in a 36″ or 42″ long crate, then a 48″ square whelping box will be perfect. These directions are for a 48″ square which will easily accommodate most pocket and standard bullies.

Materials:

  • Two 4×8 sheets of 1/4″ plywood
  • One 8′  1×1
  • Two 8′ pieces of 1×6
  • One box of laminate flooring.
  • (Enough to cover 16s.f.)
  • Tools:
  • Tape measure
  • Utility knife
  • Spray adhesive (optional)
  • Nail gun
  • Circular saw
  • Jig saw
  • Pencil
  • Shoe lace or string
  • Beer
Materials

Step 1. The base and corner posts:

Cut one piece of 1/4″ plywood in half to give you two 4×4 pieces. One of these will be your base.

We used relatively thin plywood in order to keep weight and cost to a minimum. We have used thicker in the past and saw no benefits.

Cut the 8′ 1×1 into four 18″ pieces. These will be your 4 corner posts.

Screw or nail one 18″ 1×1 into each of the 4 corners.

Next: cover the base surface with your vinyl or linoleum flooring. Be sure to notch out the 4 corners for the 1×1 posts. Tip: if you purchase 1 foot squares you will only need 16 pieces at $0.69 a piece at Home Depot. We use the vinyl flooring so that the wood doesn’t absorb the urine and discharge.

It can be easily cleaned to keep the box sanitary. Spray adhesive is optional, the flooring tiles have adhesive backing and will stick just fine without it. We just happened to have some lying around.

Flooring

Step 2. The walls:

Next cut four 48″X 18″ pieces out of your remaining plywood. It’s already 48″ wide so you’ll just have to make cuts every 18″ across.  These will be your 4 side walls. One will be the front with access door. (do not install this one yet)

Installing the Walls

Step 3 Front with Access Panel:

Front Access Panel

On the one side panels which will have the front  access door, measure across the length 1/2 way (24″) and put a temporary drew or nail in half way.  We tied a string from our temporary screw to a pencil in order to draw a semi circle which will mark our access door.

Cutting the semi circle

We then used a jig saw to cut a semi circle on the top side.

The access door can be used as needed to keep the puppies in. When the pups are first born, the panel is left off completely so that the mother can get in and out of the box very easily.

This is particularly helpful if she’s just had surgery. As the puppies get more mobile, you can drop the door to keep them inside. When the puppies are climbing out over the sides of the Whelping box it’s time to move them out.

Step 4.  The pig rails:

The purpose of the pig rails is to keep the puppy from being smashed between its mother and the side of the box. The puppy slides under the rail, and mom’s back just presses against the face of the rail. The puppies are attracted to the darkness under the pig rails. They will quickly learn that it’s safe place and spend most of their time there long before their eyes are open.

You can use 1×6 or 1×4 boards to run around the inner diameter of the box.

The height of the pig rail will vary for the size of the female. (between 5-6” off the base has seemed to work well for us)

Adding the pig rails

We cut two spacer blocks 5” tall as you can see in the photo above-and reused them under each rail to hold up them to the same height as we nailed them in.  Tip: do the two sides first, they will be the same size.  Then do the rear which will be shorter.

The Front of your whelping box

Finally the front. The front will be two small pieces the run up to the access door.

 

Bedding:

People like to use different things that they’ve have found to work well for them.

 

Aww Sookie Sookie Now (Sookie) Approves

We don’t keep our dogs outside, so to reduce smell, instead of wood chips we use old sheets from day one until the puppies become active.  During the first couple days while mom has discharge, we usually have a layer of old towels on top of the sheets. You may be able to get by with only a couple of changes a day… just plan on keeping the washer and dryer running. During the weaning process, Mom will lose interest in cleaning the puppies so the layer of old towels makes clean up a lot easier.

A thermometer near the box is also a very good idea. 78 to 80 degrees F is what we use for our new pups.  Watch the puppies to see what temperature they want… If they are always piled up, they are too cold. If they are always spread out, they are too warm.

All done! Finish your beer

Hope that this article helps someone build a whelping box that can save money, protect your newborn pups and makes whelping a litter just a little less stressful.

Mrs. Jacqueline over at Dawghouse Bullies is not only an excellent breeder, but she has a vast amount of knowledge on diet, health, nutrition and puppy care. We will be featuring more of her tips and articles in the future so stay tuned.. you’re not going to want to miss it!

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Best Food & Supplements to Add Muscle to my Pit Bull or American Bully?

Let’s start this discussion by stating: There is no supplement that will make your dog break through it’s genetic limits.

Repeat that out loud.

Exercise is great, but strapping weights on your dog (unless competing in weight pull or other athletic events) and over feeding and over using supplements will probably cause more harm than good.

That being said, a proper diet and correct use of supplements and vitamins CAN help your dog reach THEIR full potential.

You aren’t going to get there with food alone, and stop wasting money on Supplements thinking you’re going to bypass genetics.

Genetics>Food, working out, weights, running etc.

A dog gets it’s genetic makeup from it’s parents, grandparents etc. Don’t expect to bypass genetics with food and supplements.

A good gauge to use when determining what your new puppy’s adult build may be is by looking at the parents and grandparents in the pedigree.

But even then, genetics are tricky and you’re not guaranteed the build you desire.

Now, onto the best food to feed your dog.. Every dog is different, some may have food allergies or get dry itchy skin from a food your past dogs didn’t have any issue with.

We will start with the Top Dry Foods. Raw can be an excellent choice and many prefer it, but raw feeding is another article entirely. When deciding on a food, look for one that has high quality, protein rich ingredients in the first couple ingredients listed.

Click below for a list of ingredients, review and overall rating. This should give you a good starting point to choose a solid food for your dog’s unique needs and one that fits within your budget. I usually add Fish Oil/Omega’s and a Multi vitamin. Order in bulk to save money.

Five Star Dry Dog Foods
Best Wet Dog Foods
Best Raw Dog Foods
Best Dry Grain Free Dog Foods
Best Puppy Food
Best Low Fat Dog Food
Best Weight Loss Dog Foods 
Hypoallergenic Dog Foods

Five Star Rated Dry Dog Foods we have personally had great results with: Castor & Pollux, Blue Buffalo, Diamond, Merrick Grain Free and Taste of the Wild, and the premium brands Evo & Orijen (For those with more to spend)

If you want to keep updated with recent dog food recalls to prevent harm to your dog, you can find them here: Dog Food Recalls

If your dog has severe allergies (bumbs on skin, eye mucous, constantly itching face, scratching at tail) The #1 Veterinary Rated Food is Acana (I like the Lamb & Apple)

See the Top Hypoallergenic Dog Food Here

There are many other great brands as well as unbiased reviews and a complete ingredient analysis on the Dog Food Advisor’s Website.

The Dog Food Calculator below can help you estimate the proper serving size for your pet. It’s based upon a study published by a respected veterinary institute.

To use the calculator, you’ll need to know your dog’s ideal weight. This is what you believe your pet should weigh.

You’ll also need to know the number of calories in the specific dog food you’re feeding him/her

The calculator’s formula uses a dog’s metabolic weight to suggest an approximate serving size.

Dog Food Calculator

The Dog Food Calculator below can help you estimate the proper serving size for your pet. It’s based upon a study published by a respected veterinary institute.1

To use the calculator, you’ll need to know your dog’s ideal weight. This is what you believe your pet should weigh.

You’ll also need to know the number of calories in the specific dog food you’re feeding him.

Dog Food Calculator

Converting From Calories to Serving Size

Once you’ve entered your dog’s ideal weight and activity level, you’ll know the number of calories per day. However, to convert calories into something you can use, you’ll need to enter the number of calories in your dog’s food. The number of calories in a given amount of dog food is known as its metabolizable energy (ME, for short). It’s usually reported somewhere on a dog food package like this…

Calories per cup (kcal/cup)

Calories per kilogram (kcal/kilogram)

By the way, the calculator assumes you’re feeding your dog just once a day.

If you prefer to feed your dog twice a day, be sure to divide your result in half so that both meals add up to the full daily calories suggested.

If you prefer to feed your dog twice a day, be sure to divide your result in half so that both meals add up to the full daily calories suggested.

The Bottom Line

Since every dog is unique, it’s impossible to predict the serving size that’s perfect for each pet.

So, start with the package’s feeding instructions — or the amount suggested by our calculator. Be sure to weigh your dog every few weeks.

Then, simply adjust that suggested serving size up or down to reach and maintain your pet’s ideal weight.

Sure, it’s a little work. But in the end, it’s the only real life method you can scientifically rely on.

Final Word 

This tool is intended for educational purposes only and should not be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice.

Footnotes

Waltham Centre for Pet Nutrition (1999), Canine Life Stages and Lifestyles, The Waltham Course on Dog and Cat Nutrition, p. 14 ↩

ME (kcal/day) = 110 (body weight in kilograms)0.75 to maintain a typical adult dog ↩

Waltham Centre for Pet Nutrition (1999), Canine Life Stages and Lifestyles, The Waltham Course on Dog and Cat Nutrition, p. 4 ↩

Waltham Centre for Pet Nutrition (1999), Canine Life Stages and Lifestyles, The Waltham Course on Dog and Cat Nutrition, p. 16 ↩

Source: Dog Food Advisor

AMERICAN BULLY BREEDING: PREGNANCY BY THE WEEK

Louis V Line’s Venom pups in Australia Produced by Big Benefit Bullies

Female dogs (bitches) generally give birth around 63 days after conception, with a few variations between 56 and 70 days depending on the exact time of fertilization in relation to mating. This step by step guide tells you what to expect during your dog’s pregnancy and gives you practical advice and important information to help things run smoothly.

Before considering pregnancy for your bitch there are a few important factors to consider. It is recommended that all vaccinations should be up to date for the duration of the pregnancy and feeding (lactating) period, so check with your vet about this before you mate your bitch. You should also not allow your bitch to have puppies until she is fully grown and mature herself.

For most breeds of dog, having a litter of puppies is not recommend until the bitch is at least 2 years of age. Equally, it is not advisable to breed a bitch that is too old. Many vets recommend the ideal age for delivering a litter as being between 2 and 5 years old but the upper limit will depend on your dog, their breed and reproductive history and your vet’s specific advice. You should also consult your vet, an experienced breeder or the Kennel Club with whom your dog is registered for advice on any screening or precautionary measures that are advised for your particular breed of dog before you commit to breeding.

1. Mating

Mating between dogs is often preceded by a courting phase during which they play. Penetration can occur rapidly though, sometimes in under a minute. There may be a number of attempts, particularly if the partners are lacking in experience.

The male mounts the bitch and penetrates her, prompting a vaginal reflex that traps the male until the act of mating is complete. This lock phenomenon can keep the two dogs together for 15 to 30 minutes and may look odd to us, especially if the male does a 180 degree turn! It is important not to try separating them at this point by any means, as this could cause damage.

The mating process does not necessarily mean that fertilisation was successful; it may have taken place at a time when the bitch’s fertility had not yet reached its peak. Equally, the sperm can survive in the uterus for up to seven days, so fertilisation may take place several days after mating. To increase the chances of a pregnancy occurring, mating is often carried out twice, with a two day interval between the attempts. Some breeders also use a series of progesterone blood tests for their bitch, (which are available at most veterinary surgeries), to identify the optimum window of fertility for their bitch before taking her for mating.

Fertilization

Gestation begins when the female’s ova (eggs) are fertilised by the male spermatozoa (sperm). The fertilised egg is the first component of a new living being!

The embryos start off very high up in the uterus, but towards the end of the first week they migrate down towards the uterine horns. Here they float around within the uterine liquid.

2. Maintenance

When your dog’s heat has come to an end you may groom her as usual. The embryos are well protected in the uterus and gentle grooming (avoiding any stress) should not cause any concerns.

During this initial phase of gestation (from mating until around day 35) the goal is to maintain your dog’s ideal weight. Early weight gain is not recommended for optimal health. Weight gain during the first 42 days should not exceed 10% of the ideal weight. Your dog’s energy requirements remain stable at this point, the embryos do not develop greatly (in terms of their size) and no nutritional change is required, unless recommended by your vet.

If the bitch is being fed an appropriate, balanced and complete diet no vitamin or mineral supplements are required during gestation (unless your vet has specifically prescribed otherwise).

3. Nidation

Embryos embedded in uterine lining

The embryos become embedded in the uterine lining where they will subsequently develop. They will be progressively enveloped in a protective membrane that provides them with the necessary supply of nutrients.

4. Confirm gestation (pregnancy)

Visit your vet around day 28, as they can perform an ultrasound to establish a reliable diagnosis of pregnancy. This will give you some idea of the size of the litter (although detecting exact numbers is often not possible), as well as potentially detecting any abnormalities.

Alternatively, your vet can also diagnose gestation by doing a blood test to determine the level of relaxin, a hormone only created by the placenta. Whichever method your vet chooses, it is very useful to confirm your dog’s pregnancy as early as possible in order to properly monitor her condition.

5. Foetal stage

Day 35 marks the end of embryogenesis (the first phase of gestation). The organs are now all beginning to form, and we now refer to the embryo as a foetus. During this foetal phase (and in particular from the 40th day onwards) the foetus’ weight will increase by around 75%.

6. The turning point

From day 42 the pace changesand the changes are rapid! 

As your bitch enters the third and final phase of gestation, the foetus is developing fast. Claws will be developing, the skeleton begins to solidify, and the foetus will gain weight rapidly.

As a result, your dog’s nutritional requirements will change, as she now requires a diet with higher energy, protein and mineral content. It may seem contradictory, but you may well observe a drop in her appetite as her distended abdomen may make eating normal meals harder for her. Getting her to eat the right food is essential and offering her several smaller meals throughout the day, instead of 2 larger meals, may also help if you find she is not eating enough to maintain a good body condition.

7. Hair

By day 45 the foetus’ first hairs will start to appear, and the skeleton begins to ossify (solidify). The coat and bones are some of the last areas to develop.

Worming

Parasites are a concern, as they have the potential to infect the puppies at birth. It is therefore essential to make an appointment with your vet to have your bitch wormed.

The vet will advise you on which product to use.

Prepare for whelping

To avoid being caught by surprise, start preparing the place for your bitch to whelp as early as you can. The chosen place must be quiet and removed from the hustle and bustle of the household.

Don’t forget that the room must be kept warm, as newborns need heat. The floor must be easy to clean. The mother and pups will need to use this place for a few weeks, well away from any excitement so as not to disturb suckling.

8. X-ray

Around day 50 the foetus’ skeleton will have ossified, so you may choose to ask your vet whether they feel it is necessary to perform an x-ray.

In many cases, an x-ray will confirm the number of foetuses; so when it comes to whelping this will reassure you that all puppies have been delivered. Some vets may not feel an x-ray is necessary, however.

Check the bedding

Check that you have enough linen to change the bedding in the whelping area regularly. Linen must be completely dry when you use it. Make sure you have an extra heater available to provide a safe source of warmth, without risking burning the puppies or creating draughts but ensuring an ideal temperature when they are born. The room should ideally be around 24–26°C during the first week, because puppies can’t regulate their body temperature at birth. Adequate humidity levels should also be maintained.

Milk

Milk begins to flow from the bitch’s teats about one week prior to whelping. This is not, however, reliable in determining the date of whelping.

Even though it is comforting to see that your dog will be able to feed her puppies, make sure you have goat milk on hand. DO NOT use regular milk from your fridge.  Mix 1/2 goats milk and 1/2 water. If you have bootleg water in your area like Florida or some of the other states use purified water. Warm it up to room temperature, but not hot.

This is specially developed to help you cope with any feeding problems or failure in milk production by the mother. Read the instructions and the advice on hygiene. Having milk in stock before the puppies arrive will make things a lot easier for you if you do have to feed the puppies yourself.

9. Final countdown

By instinct, the bitch will seek out a quiet place to make her nest and may seem on edge; don’t be worried by this. If you haven’t done so already, set up the whelping nest in the selected place, well away from any excitement and somewhere that is easy for her to reach and get used to sleeping in. It’s a good idea to line a box with thick layers of newspaper so that she’s properly insulated from the floor. You can cover the papers with clean towels or sheets or any other material to make it comfortable; the linen and lining paper will have to be frequently changed once the pups are born.

Unless you think it will cause too much stress, it is advisable to ensure that the rear end and the teats of the bitch are clean and easily accessible so that she can give birth and feed her pups in the most hygienic conditions possible. If she has long hair, you can carefully clear the area around the vulva and teats using round tipped scissors.

To avoid being taken by surprise, take her temperature three times a day. A drop of around 1°C compared to the average of the previous day is often a sign that labour is about to start; as the drop typically occurs within 48 hours of whelping.

Pre-birth checklist

  • Whelping nest is set up in a quiet place in the house.
  • Whelping room temperature: the ideal temperature is not set in stone and differing sources have different recommendations. Most sources cite a minimum room temperature of around 30°C1 as being recommended for the first 24 hours of life, thereafter dropping to around 26°C1.
  • Tin of puppy milk in stock, just in case.
  • Clean linen and/or towels, to change the bed after whelping.
  • Disposable gloves.
  • Kitchen paper.
  • Scales to weigh the puppies.
  • Note down the phone number of your vet.

Whelping (giving birth)

Generally, most bitches manage very well by themselves. Your role mainly consists of providing her with quiet surroundings and your comforting presence. But if you do have any concerns in advance, do ask your vet for advice.

Labour can last from just a few minutes to several hours. Check on your bitch every 15 minutes or so to make sure everything is going smoothly, taking care not to show her if you are worried.

Once the first puppy is delivered, if your bitch doesn’t tear open the foetal sack herself you can do it yourself wearing disposable gloves over clean hands. Subsequent puppies will be born within anything from a few minutes to four hours later.

Typically, most puppies will be born within 1–2 hours of the last puppy, although greater variation can occur. Remember it is normal for some of the puppies to be born with their back feet first, in what is often (incorrectly in dogs) described as the “breech” position (this is actually when the bottom is delivered first, with back feet tucked forwards).

Don’t worry if your bitch eats the placenta as soon as it is expelled, this is normal.

What to do

  • Check progress regularly.
  • Call your vet if the contractions are unproductive or if you are worried.
  • If you need to invigorate a newborn puppy, rub it gently with a towel.

What NOT to do

  • Never pull the puppies, especially by the paws, to help their expulsion, this could cause serious damage.
  • Never put the puppies in cold water, it is unlikely you will need to use water for the puppies at all in the first few weeks, unless it has been recommended by your vet.
  • Never use a hairdryer, as there is a real risk of burns and dehydration.

References

  1. England, Gary C.W. Dog Breeding, whelping and Puppy Care Published 2013 by Wiley-Blackell. ISBN: 978–0–470–67313–3
  2. Catherine-Mary Howard MACantab VetMB MRCVS
  3. ROYAL CANIN®
  4.  Texas Size Bullies- Blog

Issue №7 Champion Lucky Luciano

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The History of Notorious Juan Gotty & Gottiline

The Gottiline Pit bull Bloodline, otherwise known as the Gotti Pitbulls, Gottyline or Gotty Pitbulls have become one of the most popular bloodlines in American Bully Community. This bloodline was started by Richard Barajas of West Side Kennels. He actually owned the first sire, The Notorious Juan Gotty.

Back in 1997 he bought Gotty for an amount of $1,300, from Tony Moore. Richard probably didn’t know at the time what a great buy Juan Gotty was. Tony owned Grey Line Kennels in Los Angeles. The Greyline foundation female was named Showtime. Showtime was the mother of Gotty’s father, “R Greyline’s Raider 2.  Raider passed away when Gotty was only 7 weeks old.

This was just the beginning for Gotty’s long line of fantastic foundations. If you’ve heard these names, Coldens Blue Rhino, Felony, Pate’s Blue Beast, Gottiline’s Monster, Do Good Big Boy, New Trojan’s Dillinger, and many others.

These are just some of the foundations of Gotty. In all, Gotty has sired more than 900 UKC registered American Pit bull Terriers. Starting out with Juan Gotty, the Gottiline bloodline not only spread all across the US, but also the world including China, but also Canada, Japan and the Philippines. Gotty will be known in history as one of the bully style movement’s greatest dogs.

So, the Gottiline Pit bull Bloodline is named after The Notorious Juan Gotty. Only the “y” was changed to an “i”. The look of the Gotti is very distinctive. They are usually fairly easy to tell apart from other pit bull bloodlines. A Gotti pit bull has tons of mass and is very stocky with lots of girth.

They are sometimes heavier, thicker and shorter than other pit bulls. The head is brick-like. It is extremely broad right between the cheeks, and the head sits on a well-defined and amazingly thick muscled neck. The broad distance between those cheeks is created to house those powerful jaws.

Many pit bull lovers say that they can’t tell the difference between a Razors Edge Pit bull and a Gottiline Pit bull. A trained eye can tell the difference. Their coloring may often have oil spotting or oil specking on the coat. This is very apparent on a white Gotti. This isn’t always the case, but there are many that have this feature that doesn’t appear in Razors Edge.

The personality of the Gotti is one of a good temperament. With pit bulls still carrying the reputation of being dangerous and aggressive dogs, the Gotti is actually the absolute opposite. These pits are bred without the aggression and fight that pit bulls were used for in the past. Now they are considered to be loving pets in anyone’s home. They are good with children and even other dogs if the dogs were raised together. The Gotti will be loyal to his family and property and will used his strength and power to protect both.

There are other bloodlines that are related to the Gottiline pit bull bloodline. Gotti is the foundation for Mikeland’s Kracker and Gator and also Kingpinline’s Goliath. Besides these unique lines, he is also the foundation for many of the bully pit bulls that weigh more than 90-100lbs., considered to be the XL pitbulls. On the other side of the scale, Gotti is also the foundation for many pocket pitbulls that weigh less than 60lbs.

Juan Gotty has created many unique and diverse kinds of pit bulls and played a huge role in the development of our newer breed, the American Bully. Yet each one is exceptional in its’ own way. They each have unique qualities and factors that make them special.

Notorious Juan Gotty is a legend in the dog game and probably the most well known in the movement of the bully pitbull (what people were beginning to call the pit bulls carrying the dense bone, blocky head and added muscle mass during the creation of the American Bully before it was a recognized breed.) No matter what the size of the Gottiline Pit bull, the bone, head and extreme girth are usually factors in this particular bloodline.

There are too many dogs with Notorious Juan Gotty in the pedigree to list, but a few of the more famous dogs in the beginning of the development of our breed are Cali Kingpin’s Goliath II (G2) and Gottiline’s Dax

G2
Dax

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History Of The Razors Edge Bloodline

Razors Edge Pitbulls was started in MD and DC by Dave Wilson and Carlos Barksdale. They initially started out with game dogs. To be clear: this article is referring to “Razor’s Edge Pitbulls” it’s history before later playing a key role in the Evolution of the American Bully. This article details the beginning of Razors Edge, but recognizes the difference between the name “Razors Edge Pitbulls” and the American Pit Bull Terrier breed.

The Beginning

To begin, they started researching everything that they could find and read just about every book publicized at the time. They also subscribed to many dog magazines like the ADBA Gazette, as well as some of the underground ones. Next, they called nearly every breeder that they could find and questioned them, If it said Pit, they were on it.

Eventually, they saved enough money to get some real papered, game dogs from good bloodlines. They purchased some of the best around at the time, even paying $3500 way back then for a Grandson of the great “Plumbers Alligator,” mainly Mayfield lines. Dave and his friend Carlos were very heavy into the game lines and had dogs from Hemphill to Wilder blood (Old Family Reds) These were big game dogs.

Later on they hooked up with George Williams in DC and purchased a dog they named Diablo, from Wildside Kennels. A little backstory for those who may not be familiar- Ed Faron authored The Complete Gamedog: A Guide To Breeding and Raising The American Pit Bull Terrier which has been passed between game breeders for years. We are against dog fighting but this book does detail the history of the APBT, and unfortunately that includes dog fighting. Ed Faron contributed to a lot of the information we have today on The American Pit Bull Terrier including breaking down the History of The Tri Colored Pit Bull. Ed was convicted of dog fighting twice with the most recent charges coming in 2008.

Diablo’s dad was a bigger catch dog, “Hollinsworth Bull”. His mom was a game girl names “Wildsides Ms.Leaky”. This was the turn around time when Razors Edge Pitbulls started adding more size. The first ever registered “ADBA” Razors Edge Pitbull’s breeding was from his Mayfield boy Zeus to a Mayfield girl name Jinx. Jinx was actually given to friend back then named Curt Plater, now CLP Kennels.

You’ll see “CLP” on many of your dog’s papers if you look back far enough. He owned the first ever Razors Edge Pit bulls dog. Dave and Curt would lose contact after this for many years before hooking up again. Around this same time pit bulls were banned in PG County and Dave was forced to move. Eventually though, through Dave’s job in the Pet Store industry he landed a mangers job at a Pet Store in VA. So he moved to VA and still resides there as Razors Edge Kennel.

Dave managed a Pet Store, worked as a professional dog trainer, and still bred bigger ADBA game dogs. He also put fliers in the Washington Post explaining what the breed was and what Razors Edge Pitbulls was about. Dave met a guy name Ron Smith who came aboard and took Razors Edge Pitbulls to another level.

Ron already knew every UKC and AKC breeder under the sun. Ron had been researching on his own for years. The man really was the “Pit Guru”. He first contacted Thingy ’n’ Bull Kennels. They turned them onto some people in Cali with the blood that they were after. Candace Eggart was one. Candy sent pictures of what she had. Just to give you a time frame, Candy sold a dog years later to Tony Moore named Showtime! Showtime went on to be one of the foundation dogs in the Greyline bloodline!

So this was years before Greyline was even around.

Dave and Ron went to every breeder on the East Coast. Up north to Bobby Morehouse, Beth Jones, a friend of his Lee Fitzgerald, Flying A’s, Minot’s Ledge, etc. they actually purchased a blue brindle female named “Sadey” from Minot’s Ledge. This litter was had an extraordinary pedigree. The top half were mainly Flying A’s dogs like “Oreo” and “Reo Speedwagon.” Dogs he had seen and liked.

You could see in the extended pedigree how these dogs stemmed from Ruffian dogs. Then you could see how it went back even further from the AKC Ruffian dog to the UKC Colby dogs. This top half of the pedigree actually show how Pits eventually were registered as Staffs! Dave thought that was cool to see on paper and in a dog he owned. Then the bottom half of the ped went right back to Stratton dogs. Dogs like Going light Barney, dogs he grew up reading about!

Thanks to Richard Stratton, Then behind them were the same Colby dogs he saw on the top half of the pedigree. So he had this dog that showed the history of the Am. Staff and the directions the Colby line went in the UKC. he also purchased a male named “Razors Edge Blue Maxx”. His top half was a dog named “StoryTime’s Upon this Rock” AKA “Peter” Peter was a dog bred by Beth Jones. He was a big dog, but kinda ugly. They bred him to “Wassuc’s Farm Maggie May”. Dave really liked this compact girl.

He researched her lines and found she was Ryan. When they got to see the Ryan dogs they were surprised to see they were game dogs. They were AKC registered Staffs, but they still bred for game dogs! This was something Dave had never seen, I’m sure that’s why the AKC people didn’t like that line, . However, Dave loved it! Bully, game, blue, staffs! Now that’s what I am talking about! Maxx was there boy from this blood. Now Razors Edge Pitbulls was big ADBA game dogs, one UKC Blue Brindle girl, and a Big hot Blue Fawn AKC boy.

In Va. there was Sharon Stone of Cloverhill, who had the biggest Staffs Dave had ever seen! Her old stuff was huge! Too tall for what he was looking for, but huge! They changed years later and went more showy. Razors Edge Pitbulls Paco, was in Dave’s opinion actually a throw back of her older days. Ginny York, Pam Perdue, GiGi, the Garretts, etc….they visited them all.

Even went down to Florida and checked out Marsha Woods. Met KC Courtier of Watchdog Kennels. Eventually, went up to Md and met Kimmar Kennels. As soon as Dave stepped on the ranch, he knew he had found the build he was looking for! The Razors Edge Pitbulls package was almost complete.

Razors Edge Pitbulls had been advertising in the Washington Post for many years. Some young guys from DC used to come down and hang out and bring their dogs. Edwin Salinas and Joey Nevils were two of them. These guys had been buying dogs from Kimmar and mixing their own stuff in them too. Kimmar used to have an ad in the post under the Pit Bull ads, it said “Petey pups”. They didn’t want their dogs to be labeled as Pits; but they advertised directly under Pits.

Anyway, local people knew the deal and picked up a lot of her dogs. Joey, Edwin, Joey’s pops, and their boys had a bunch of these dogs. Even some old friends of Dave’s Jerry and Gerrold had yards with these dogs. They all had game stuff in the mix. Dave tapped into a lot of their dogs as well to create Razors Edge pitbulls. In Kimmar’s yard he learned a lot about breeding and genetics. Dave spent every weekend there for almost three years, and actually put on a training class for all her buyers every Sunday.

Razors Edge Pitbulls had been breeding now for a few generations and even used a lot of dogs from other people in the mix. Ron, also had some Pitbulls who were already in the game. Kimmar actually used there dog Maxx for some breedings. Eventually they purchased around 15 dogs from her line, including Knuckles and Rage. While these pups were growing, Razors Edge already had it’s formula. They just wanted a different head. They were not given papers on some of these dogs and they had to be UKC registered instead!

This is where Razors Edge Pitbulls became heavily involved in UKC. Dave started searching for a better head and came into some Watchdog stuff. KC was not breeding anymore, so he had to find that blood somewhere else. he bought dogs from Grapevine Kennels, and also hit up Hughzee’s, who he believe later on became Chaos Kennels. They had been talking to Pam from Gaff Kennels for a few years, and really liked a boy name Seiko. So they got a dog from her. So Dave began to experiment with a lot of lines and different dogs. Razors Edge started having a real consistent look. The heads were big, but they still wanted them to be a little blockier. A few generations later and it was pretty much there.

So by taking combinations of dogs and bloodlines Dave eventually got to the style of pitbull he wanted, now called “Bully Style” of Razors Edge Pitbulls. Meaning large in size, such as a large head, wide chest, short blocky muzzles, large, but not over done bone, and a shorter back, but at the same time correct as the United Kennel Club and American Kennel Club judge by. Razors Edge Pitbulls’ Dave purchased a pup from the breeding of Kimmars Catt Man Roo and Pam’s White Path China Black. These two dogs produce a few dogs in the litter that helped to promote the Razors Edge pitbulls line, dogs such as: GR CH Razors Edge Throwin Knuckles, CH Razors Edge Inna Rage, and Razors Edge Sapphire Lil.

Another breeding that produced one of the most famous dogs in the history of Razors Edge was between Ch. Jackson’s GMJ Mr. Brooks and Razors Edge SilverSadey of ML which produced GR. CH. Razors Edge Sadey’s Paddington and also Kim’s Blue Dekota.

Dave used Ch. CloverHill’s Watuka Spirit AKA Paco and bred him to Paddington, which produced the legendary CH. Razors Edge Purple Rose of Cairo, one of the most famous dogs of all the Razors Edge Pitbulls. Razors Edge Kenna Claddaugh, Razors Edge Top Notch Chino, Razors Edge Chi Chi of Trueblue, Tonka and Jigga and Iced Mocha are also productions from this breeding.

When the time was right the grand champion knuckles was bred to Paddington, which produced another female, named Viagra. Viagra was bred to the legend Cairo and produced one of my favorite males Razors Edge V’s Lil Ro, AKA “RO”. They also produced Cai, Diva, Caira and a few more. RO lives his own legacy today in producing some beautiful dogs such as Suarez Bulls Samurai Paco and genuine Edge’s Toxic, and Titan Kennels Titan, just to name a few males off of him.

Cairo was also bred to a few other females, such as the Cairo and Koi Breeding. Koi who is out of GR CH Knuckles and Dakota (Paddingtons sister), was bred to Cairo and produced Rage, Neela, Brooklyn, Shamrock, Rolli, Rosetta, and Diamond. Cairo was also bred to tiki and produced a male by the name of Hennessy.

The Cairo side of razors edge pitbulls is just a fraction of the bloodline. The line has been taking in different directions but everything basically stems from the knuckles, paddington, and rage blood.

Another well known producing dog is Razors Edge CLP’s Short Shot, Short Shot is off of Buckshot and Rage. Shortshot has done a few breedings is his life, such as Diamond, and more recently Paradise and Steel. There are also sections of the blood that are almost like a line in its own depending on what your looking for.

You’ve got the Cairo side, the Shortshot side, then you have the Manu side, Dozer Daisy line breedings, which all basically tie into each and every dog produced from razors edge pitbulls yard in the very beginning! You just have to connect them all together producing outstanding dogs from the start and putting time and effort and lots of money into building a dream.

Razors Edge Pit bulls Kennel has been involved in learning, breeding, showing, training and raising the American Pit bull Terrier for well over 20 years and it keeps getting better! Razors Edge is a bloodline for everyone. It offers show quality dogs, correct bully dogs, and some overdone dogs (overdone meaning extreme bone, head, and chest) But at the same time very clean dogs compared to other lines.

There are several Razors Edge top dogs that carry the head chest, bone and girth that personifies the American Bully. In my opinion, this is a cleaner dog than some of the other lines.

Although it isn’t ashyped up as some of the newer Gottyline dogs that have stolen the spotlight recently, this is as good or better. It all depends on what you’re looking for.

But if you’ve been sleeping on the Razors Edge Bloodline, you need to wake up. This bloodline has been producing heavy hitters for years. No hype, all substance.

Real dog men know this.

What Is An Exotic Bully & What’s A “Clean Exotic?”

Let’s start this out by stating that as a magazine- BULLY KING supports all of the bully breeds along with their various categories, classes and types. There’s already more than enough drama in the bully community already without adding to to it by disrespecting someone for their personal preference/style of dog they like.

That being said, we’re fully aware of the divide between those who support the American Bully and those who favor an Exotic Bully. There continues to be controversy between the two groups, with it going as far as the release of “Fuck exotics” t shirts, we’ve seen the disagreements between the two communities escalate into physical violence, fights at shows and even personal attacks online.

From the originators of this movement to the many who followed- there are now hundreds of thousands of people who love the Exotic Bully. There are equally as many who despise this new breed, claiming it isn’t an actual breed and that it’s an unhealthy representation of what the American Bully was intended to be. There are equally as many people who don’t have no clue what an Exotic Bully is, or the difference between this style of dog and the American Bully.

BULLY KING wants to shed some light on this Exotic Bully Movement as well as the “Clean Exotic”- A subgroup of the Exotic Bully Movement who’s supporters are now calling for a more complete “Exotic style” Bully. The phrase “Clean Exotic” has recently gained a ton of momentum, heating up on Facebook and catching on fire online.. In fact, in the past two months “Clean Exotic” has been the most searched on term in Google search relating to bully breed dogs.

So What is an Exotic Bully?

The Exotic Bully is a newer designer dog breed that began to distance itself from the American Bully as early as 2008. It has established itself as separate from it’s cousin the American Bully and is still a controversial topic with much needed breed standards. One of the few descriptions or characteristics of the Exotic Bully that everyone involved with the breed seemed to agree upon was “exaggerated style of features on a smaller, more compact dog,” described as carrying more “bulldog features.”

The Exotic Bully: Registry Descriptions & Standards

Dogs with ”Bulldog” characteristics more extreme than the “Original American Bullies.”

The International Bully Coalition (IBC)

Founded by Jorge Soto, owner of what most consider to be the originator of the Exotic Bully- The Bullycampline’s Mr. Miagi, currently runs the first and one of the largest Exotic Bully Registries known as the IBC or International Bully Coalition. The IBC was also one of, if not the first registry to create a Breed Standard for Exotics.

The Registry takes a politically correct stance in their description of how the Exotic Bully came about. Their description is below:

Major changes in the phenotype of the breed have been due to consistent infusion of different bulldog breeds. Although we do not know specific dogs, bloodlines or origin of the dogs. When they were introduced the vast majority of these animals were not recorded in Genealogical Records.

The infusions were constant enough that these dogs got very far away from the original proposed standard by the American Bully. An inevitable conflict within that breed fell on the Clubs, Owners and Breeders similar to the disdain American Pit Bull Terrier fanciers had toward the American Bully during the establishment of the American Bully breed.

The feud is still going on, with APBT owners claiming that the American Bully ruined the American Pit Bull Terrier by breeding out gameness. Proponents of the American Bully argue that there is no need for those traits and that the breed makes excellent companions.

The foundation of most “exotics” today can be attributed to the American Bully, French Bulldog, Olde English Bulldog, Shorty Bull and English Bulldog (although various other types of bulldog and related breeds are believed to have been included as well.)

IBR Exotic Classes

American Bully Exotic

The American Bully Exotic is an extension of the American Bully Standard. It is an established breed known for it’s eye-catching features. The American Bully Exotic brings a definite wow-factor with it’s ability to provide an exaggerated blocky head, great amounts of girth and muscle tone, all on a compact body.

What we find a little suspect is that there are so few faults in the breed standard, mainly easty westy feet and short or kinked tails.

The Micro Exotic Bully

Shares the same characteristics but is significantly smaller than the American Bully Exotic but still maintains good girth, muscle tone and exaggerated features. The Micro Exotic is determined by it’s fully developed height in it’s adulthood. General size is 13 inches and under from ground to withers.

The American Bully Registry (ABR)

Another one of the larger Registries catering to Exotic Bullies is the ABR or The American Bully Registry. The ABR has issued a Standard for the Exotic Bully as well, which you can see below:

The Exotic Bully is an extension of the American Bully but its looks and characteristics are more exaggerated and pronounced than its American Bully counterpart. Being that the class is in its infancy, current standards will be amended and adjusted in a manner that best suites the betterment of the breed and breeder.

General impression of the Exotic Bully leaves little to no room for mistaking it for any of the other Bully breeds due to its over exaggerated characteristics and extreme features. Though Bulldog looks are very influential in the breed, mixing is not condoned nor accepted by the ABR.

The USBR

Over the last few years the Exotic Bully is beginning to get a “desired” look that is becoming more consistent and this breed standard will serve as a standard for which they will be graded by with the goal of bringing more even consistency to the breed.

The Exotic Bully should give the impression of great strength for its size, compact to medium/large size dog with a muscular body and blocky head. The Exotic Bully should have the appearance of heavy bone structure with a bully build, the breed is a “head and front breed” chest should be wide to match blocky head type.

The Exotic Bully should easily be distinguishable from an American Bully.

Although The Various Exotic Registries’ Initial Standards Differ, They Do Agree on the Following:

Faults:

  • Kinks, knots, and short tails, long tails
  • Extremely overshot or undershot bites
  • Easty Westy Feet

Hopefully we can start to see Exotic breeders attempting to correct these faults, but as long as the Registries setting the Standards for the Exotic Bully- excuse, or even applaud dogs with these faults it’s going to be an uphill battle.

What Is A  “Clean Exotic?

The newest phrase in the bully community and the most talked about subject aside from the recent show in Atlanta has been the phrase “clean exotic.” So much so, that groups across Facebook have popped up left and right in an attempt to be the first to cater to this new crowd. With so many new groups popping up, it can be hard to find a home. We recommend Clean Exotic Bully Official & American Bully & Clean Exotic Exclusive Pups/Studs 5K and Up.  Even if that’s out of your budget, it’s a good place to see examples of a Clean Exotic without a lot of the mess you’ll find in some of the other groups.

Finding the definition of a “Clean Exotic” can be a daunting and exhaustive process and you’ll probably get a different answer from each person you ask. So we decided to interview several of the Top Breeders and key members of this new movement along with the first to coin this new term to get some clarity on what a Clean Exotic bully is. We took all of the descriptions from interviews with several top breeders to find out what exactlty makes up a “Clean” Exotic to better define this new direction for the Exotic Bully.

In a nutshell, the Clean Exotic Movement is calling for an Exotic Bully without the mess. A Clean Exotic still carries the Exotic look; a short and compact frame (preferably under 13″ tall), short muzzle, exaggerated features and all of the traits that those who prefer an Exotic Bully were initially drawn to the breed for. It’s is basically what all of the Exotic Registries call for in their Standards- but no one seems to produce.

This isn’t a “Cleaner” version meaning less bone, head and extreme features.

From what we were able to gather, it is cleaner version as in: shorter, more compact, proportional dogs without the joint issues, high rears, limousine/roach backs, feet pointing to the equator and all of the other issues so prevalent in the Exotic community.

Desired Traits

  • Height: 13” or Under
  • Muzzle: 2” or Less
  • Small & Compact
  • Height & length Virtually the Same
  • Everything Proportional
  • Underbite or clean Bite Acceptable
  • Minimal/No elbow sticking out past shoulder width
  • Tight feet and pasterns
  • Top skull width same as head width
  • Pronounced cheeks

In no specific Order here are some fine examples of a “Clean Exotic”

In summary, from what we gathered, a Clean Exotic keeps all of the exaggerated features of what makes an Exotic Bully “exotic” while cleaning up a lot of the shit. Let’s face it, there’s a lot of shit that needs to be cleaned up in the Exotic community (as a whole) Ask the handful of good breeders who are putting in the time and dedication to produce dogs with less flaws and health defects, they’ll tell you the same thing.

While the same bad breeders continue to abuse photoshop and trick unsuspecting customers into buying defective dogs. traits like elbow joints sticking out, which is probably the dumbest shit we’ve think we have ever heard viewed as desirable in a breed is no longer awarded.

Don’t Miss Out On Issue No.12:

 

Rise Of The American Bully Australia

Issue No.12 On Sale Now! Release Date: July 25th

2018 Official BULLY KING Mascot Double L’s MYE-STRO
One of the Baddest Bulls on the Planet

DOUBLE L’S MYE-STRO

 

RISE OF THE AMERICAN BULLY | AUSTRALIA

Inside Issue #12:

• Double L’s MYE-STRO is Creating a Legacy
• American Bully Down Under: Interest in the Breed is Taking Off in Australia Breeders Importing the Best
• Interview: Jorge Guerra of Brute Force Bullies
• Hydrocephalus: That’s NOT a “Freaky” or “Alien” Head
• Ectropion and Entropion
• Canine Allergies
• Some of the New Studs On The Scene are No Joke
• The “Clean Exotic” is the Newest Hype.. What Is It?
• Much More Inside the next Issue of BULLY KING Magazine!

 

BULLY KING Magazine | The Bully Breed Source

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BULLY KING Magazine ISSUE No. 11 | 2017-2018 Mascots

ISSUE No. 11 Will Be LIVE in the BULLY KING App today!

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The Wait Is Over..

Issue No. 11 • The 2018 BULLY KING Mascots

That time of the year is upon us.. The 2018 BULLY KING Magazine Mascots are Officially Announced With the release of the infamous group cover! Grab your copy now or Subscribe to the Year (Best Value) for your piece of bully history.

This year’s lineup doesn’t disappoint..

Inside Issue 11 You’ll Find some of the best Studs in the game, Future Legends along with newcomers to the scene you’ll definitely want to keep an eye on

Why Was This Release Pushed Back?

Unfortunately With The Passing Of One Of Our Mascots We Had To Have The Cover & Mascot Features Re done. We Cover the Loss Of Mr. UK & Tribute to Him Inside The Issue.

The Ship Date For All Subscribers & Upcoming Issues Have Been Updated On Our Website

Issue 12 May 25th
Issue 13 June 25th
Issue 14 August 25th
Issue 15 October 25th
Issue 16 December 25th

All Subscribers Will Receive 6 Issues
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2018’s Hottest Studs + Up And Comers To Watch Out For

STUDS MAKING THE MOST NOISE IN 2017-2018

This is NOT a list of the top show dogs, those rankings can easily be found on the different registry’s websites.

In no specific order, this is a list of the most sought after Studs- that are taking the bully World by storm this year, demanding international attention, and earning their owners serious cash.

Ch Magoo
GrCh Reliance’s Chumper
GrCh Rocko
Louis V Line’s Venom
GrCh Mr. Bean
Double L’s Mye-Stro
Ch Shamrock
GrCh Loki
GrCh Kaos
ABPK Mr. Trouble Maker
Ch Grimm
Louis V Line’s Oro
Deadpool Phoking Style Bullies
Clicquot ABB Boys
Reliance’s Zoo-Lou of MBK Kennels
GrCh Train Robber Jesse James Owned by Judy & Mike Cook
GrCh Tone “The Clone”
Unafyed Bullyz’ Tyson
MonsterBully’s Iancu
GrCh El Toro Owned by Ivan Condor
Reliance’s Lycan

And for our readers who prefer an exotic style bully..

IB’s Bape
Stan Lee of Ohio Bully Camp
Savage Bullies’ Arson

Up & Coming Heavy Hitters To Keep An Eye On

These are Studs Not Yet Fully Developed (Under 18 Months) With A Ton of Potential

Notorious Owned by KC Chavez a GrCh Rocko son
Genuine’s Lux Owned by Jason Dyson
Gunsmoke of Bluepoint Kennels a Venom son
Eminent’s Yellow Claw
Bull Gator’s Doc Johnson a Mye-Stro son
“Ghost” a Venom son Owned by Lilzay King

Breakout Female Superstar

Venus Louis V Line Europe

Breakout Female

Aftermath Moana

Puppy With Serious Potential to Become The Next Big Thing

Luca Brasi.. Too Young To Call The Next Big Stud.. but just look at this stunning pup! We have a feeling his future will be very bright!

Luca Brasi Owned by Bucktown Bullyz’

We will be updating this list throughout the year as we travel to shows, see and hear about other dogs deserving of this list.